RETURN TO BO. . .
January 5, 2009
Sierra Leone
New Year’s Day departure from Boston with frigid wind chill sub zero temps seems light years away as I write from the guest house for WAI/WAFF volunteers in the steamy evening heat here in Bo.
We all rendezvoused at Heathrow per plan which was quite miraculous considering all the snowstorms we managed to dodge. It’s exciting that we are the first “batch” of volunteers for the program and to see the vision unfolding. “We” comprises, Melinda Binks from Jackson, Wyoming (www.fallcreekproductions.com) a cinematographer who will be working with Jenn Barton, a writer from Wiscasset, Maine to produce a film about the WAI program and the obstetric fistula women’s stories. They were high school friends and hadn’t seen each other for ten years prior to Heathrow. It’s great to watch them in action. Zhao Han is from Gainesville, Florida, a premed student here to teach family planning and reproductive health. Coleman Griffith, an EMT from Fort Collins, Colorado, will teach first aid to the hospital staff and in the community. Annie Strachan (Helen’s daughter), a student at Lewis and Clark College majoring in international studies, will help in all aspects of the program including helping get the garden project launched and teaching the women.
After the chaotic scene at baggage claim and getting through customs it was wonderful to be greeted at the Lungi Airport by Poppa and Julia Robinson. Julia from Ojai, California has been here since September and has been acting administrator. Her presence and hard work has been a tremendous asset for the program as everything gets “settled”. She’s a “VV”…veteran volunteer.
Poor Julia had had a rather harrowing day prior to our arrival. Our long term arrangements for accommodation at the Lungi Airport Hotel fizzled at the last minute due to being bumped by Qadafi and his Libyan entourage! The Libyans have been in Sierra Leone to dedicate an enormous mosque on the outskirts of Freetown. Julia had to scuttle and make other bookings. We appreciated her efforts and had a good first sleep SL at the Lucia Guest House.
After the usual ferry queues and delays in the AM we managed to hit the road for Bo about 1PM. The road is much improved since I was here in September which was a treat not hitting miles of pot holes and corduroy ruts. Upon arrival it was grand to reunited with the community of staff and friends here and introduce everyone all round. A real homecoming.
We’ve had a full two days since arrival. Sunday we went to Taiama and visited with Samuel Pieh and his family after attending the morning/afternoon church service (four hours!!!). The afternoon entertainment comprised of cultural dancing and a tightrope acrobat. It was very festive and fun.
Monday AM was spent in a series of courtesy calls to community dignitaries and officials…the mayor, the paramount chief, the district chairman, the police chief and the provisional secretary.
It’s been wonderful just seeing how the ward has come together since all the renovations in September. Currently there are 27 patients and many will be part of the discharge ceremony slated for next week. One woman has just had her catheter removed and she is dry after 15 years of dealing with fistula. Imagine the change in her life!
At an impromptu staff meeting today I introduced all the volunteers and distributed the donated Barack Obama T-shirts. There were many hoots and hollers of delight!
So we are getting into a bit of a routine with our planned work activities and it’s a very homey atmosphere with everyone in the guest house. We have wonderful meals provided by Safula who Julia has hired and trained.
Waking up in the AM to the call to morning prayer is a favorite moment for me. This place really gets under one’s skin and it feels like another home. It’s exciting to think of what lies ahead for the next few months.
Some photos:
Local Police and Waff
Unpacking at guest house first night
Cole, Julia, Annie & Zhao
Jenn, Uma Hawa Bah & Melinda
Kadiata doing Africa puzzle
Interviewing Sundu in the back
Planting first seeds
Annie & friends cleaning memorial
Mende lessons
Hair braiding time
The Obama gang!
Transitions. . .
Sitting at Heathrow airport awaiting the flight to Boston I watch and listen to the melting pot of cultures and languages. I’m in my own little bubble as I make the transition from my community of friends and “family” in Bo to my community of family and friends in Maine and beyond. It seems that the layover is a good one as it gives me a chance to absorb a bit of the past few weeks in Sierra Leone, especially the past few days. I have wanted to catch up prior to this, but there literally has been no lull in the action.
After the move of supplies out of Holy Mary Hospital, the patients remained in the ward. Their spirits remained high as they felt the buzz of adrenaline from the staff as we made the necessary preparations for the shift to the new ward at Bo Government Hospital. Once again, I marvel at the dedication of the staff, really pitching in and go the extra ten miles with the long hours and willingness to do a variety of jobs. It’s good to get new life and energy pumped into this place. There is a mass grave of 280 people a stone’s throw away which is very sobering. A future project will be to spruce it up and plant a memorial flower garden.
Bids were procured from local contractors for the painting, new screens, and windows, electrical work. The work began right away and it was a proverbial beehive of activity and exciting to return every few hours to see the transformation in progress. It seemed as though it would be possible to get the women moved on Monday. 
Meanwhile, a memorandum of understanding had been drafted and agreed upon and official meetings were abundant, as well as discussions late into the night (sometimes debriefing the afternoon meeting or preparing for the next) at the guest house. Julia, Darius and I are all high achieving list-making doers and we were pulling out all the stops ensuring that the bases were covered. Samuel Pieh came from Monrovia, Liberia for the weekend which was wonderful. His insights and advice are always valuable.
As per the local custom and protocol, arrangements were made to meet with local dignitaries and government officials to be formally introduced and welcomed. Saturday AM we (Darius, Samuel, Julia, Helen, Benjamin and John) were escorted by Dr. Koroma, our medical director and the superintendent of Bo Government Hospital to the home of the Paramount Chief of the Kakua Chiefdom, Rashid Komanda-Bongay IV. After the formal greetings in Mende and Krio and the presentation of the traditional gift of a bottle of gin and money, the paramount chief insisted that we go to his office since this is where the traditional welcoming ceremony must occur. We piled back into the Cruiser and followed him in his old, but pristine yellow Mercedes back to his office. We were ushered in front of his massive desk and seated into large chairs. He gave a talk and then we all spoke too. To finish off the meeting, we all stood and gathered at the door, while he stooped at the threshold and held a large glass of gin and said a long chanting prayer. It was quite dramatic, especially as he was dressed in a traditional long robe. Afterwards, there was a photo op for the press.
Saturday afternoon we had a staff meeting in the guest house dining room. People have concerns and are tired. Regular communication is always a bottom line. New T-shirts were presented and Amanda gave out sunglasses which lifted spirits. 
That evening Darius, Julia and I went to Samuel Pieh’s homestead in Taiama to visit his farm. Before dinner we walked in the pouring rain for mile or so to see the flourishing rice fields and his happy goats. It was good to be outside just enjoying simple things.
Sunday AM, another core meeting with Dr. Koroma after a morning walk. Then back to the BGH to check on the progress as well as enjoying the vision of new gardens in the large spaces at the rear of the building which the women and volunteers can work on together. Our tranquil moment was interrupted by Amanda ringing to say that the women had all walked down to the guest house to get water from the well since the water at Holy Mary had been turned off by Dr. Soyei the proprietor! Not exactly a nice move on his part, not to mention illegal.
Rather than fight it we all sprung into action, returning to HM as fast as possible. We had agreed to just make do and put the women into a temporary situation at BGH. When we arrived back the women were all packed up and ready to go. They were excited and looked like a flock of beautiful birds as Jackie, the head nurse, got them all into the van and the Cruiser and off they went, the roof of the Cruiser loaded with their stuff. Within about a half hour we cleared out the last of our goods down to the last bucket and paperclip and loaded it all into Dr. Koroma’s pick up. We left the place spotless, with everything in order. 
Off to the next meeting at 3 with Darius and Dr. Koroma to meet with the medical coordinators of MSF. Their hospital is due to close at the end of 2010. They are very interested to hear our plans for health care and the resurrection of BGH due to our presence. It was valuable to make the connection with them. At the end of the meeting, we waited outside the gate for a few minutes for Poppa’s pickup (he had been moving the last of the stuff). Just as he drives up, two MSF Vehicles pull out and the Med. Coordinator we had just met with says there has been an accident “just down the road” involving 20-30 people. We pile in and follow them, figuring 2 doctors and a nurse could be of assistance. We end up driving for almost an hour to a rather remote destination off the beaten track. A large truck loaded with passengers and goods had overturned. By the time we arrived everything was under control, though the truck was still over on its side and surrounded by about a hundred people praying in gratitude that there had been no fatalities. The people with injuries had already been removed. Despite there being nothing for us to do, people appreciated our desire to assist and we returned to Bo.
The last event of the day was a goodbye party for me at Dr. Koroma’s house. The nurses prepared a lovely dinner with his wife Judith. There was dancing to country music, a couple of touching speeches and the presentation of lovely handmade clothes by Auntie K. to top off the BIG day.
Monday AM, awake to pack and have a briefing with Julia, who will be essential in terms of continuity until my return in early January. Off to three more meetings…the parliamentarian secretary, the mayor and the head of the district council. Nothing like cramming things in until the last minute! A pregnant woman with polio. . .
Back to the hospital and I take the women down to see the progress on the ward. They clap with excitement. They are just then realizing that I am taking off and many weep as they see me weep, especially as they sing a goodbye song. They touch me in such a deep place.
More difficult goodbyes and I am finally off to catch the ferry in Freetown driven by Kabba. Auntie K comes too and teaches me some Mende words before we drop her at her village near Freetown. During the five hour drive, I can already feel the start of the transition back into my “other” world. I have some time to absorb some of the African essence; the verdant country side, the bumpy road, the hubbub of the marketplace at Moyamba Junction, the sights of children playing in the full creeks, waving village children yelling “Oputoo, oputoo” (foreign person), the smells of rain, fresh monkey meat for sale, witnessing a gigantic funeral procession at Mile 91, passing a stuck bus and an overturned truck.
I arrive at the ferry terminal and Kabba helps me arrange transport to the airport from the other side. It’s always a chaotic scene there, but it feels good to be familiar with it all. I hug Kabba goodbye and head off into the throng. A huge rainbow over the water is my last image. I am already looking forward to my return. Love, Helen
Discharge ceremony
Uma Hawa Bah at ceremony
Post ceremony
Five discharged women
Sama's hairdo
Puzzle Queens
Helen & Annie
Cole teaching CPR
Cole & Annie in new garden
Annie with Julia & Kumba
Annie painting new sign on memorial
Interviewing Martha with Benjamin
Woman on bridge
Melinda & Jenn on sunset hill
Team for Outreach on bridge
