Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

6 More Days. . .

It's hard to believe that I just have 6 more days here. I have learned so much and met many wonderful people. Time is totally warped. Sometimes it as though I have been here for months, other times just a quick flash.

I have gotten into the routine of walking to the hospital every morning at about 7:30. It's a steady up hill trek on a series of tracks through a few "neighbourhoods" and takes about 30 minutes. Despite the heat, I actually arrive at WAFF feeling quite energised. I wash up and change clothes, as I am absolutely drenched with sweat upon arrival. The commute gives me a chance to reflect and feel a bit more integrated. People now call out "How de bow-dee?" and know my name. I am definitely an enigma, not many "urpotos" (white people) walk this route!

There are families out getting ready for the day, doing all the regular things of getting kids off to school, plaiting their hair and washing up and cooking breakfast over open fires. Scroungy dogs are very prevalent. Yesterday the 27th was Sierra Leone's 47th year of independence, but the holiday has been on Monday. There have been major parades and parties everywhere.
Last night the music blared throughout the town until 0600, so this morning when I did the walk things were pretty quiet.

It's been very wonderful getting to know Dr. Darius Maggi from Denison, Texas. He founded WAFF and is a very compassionate individual who really goes all out for these women of Sierra Leone. We have been able to have good discussions about WAFF and health care generally in Sierra Leone. This is his 20th time here, so everyone welcomes him heartily.
It's just so amazing that this is one of the Africa's richest countries in terms of natural resources, yet it's on the bottom of the GNP list. It is interesting to try to make some sense of this and try to figure out ways to help these people with him. I'll come back "talkin' like a like a Texin" if I don't watch out. It's infectious!

Saturday, April 26, 2008

A few photos. . .

Here are a few photos.
I'll be writing an update soon.

Helen
























































Friday, April 25, 2008

Friday, April 25, 2008

Back in Freetown. . .

Back in Freetown late last night and I am here at the local internet cafe now. So many sights on the way here, about a mile walk through very crowded streets full of pedestrians, motorbikes and cars. Definitely the most vulnerable aspect of being here, not the security aspect, just not getting hit by a moving vehicle. I am very careful and have eyes at the back of my head now.

Interesting sights to see as the morning begins. What these people (generally women) carry on their heads is just phenomenal. Mostly their hands are free too! Huge loads of rice, mangos, petrol. I also saw two soccer players jogging to practice with the balls on top of their heads! Amazing. . .Then there are the women all plaiting each other's hair around their doors stoops. The many homeless dogs are curled up on the street corners after a big night out foraging through all the rubbish on the streets. Saturday will be the monthly clean up day where no vehicles are allowed out until early afternoon. A joke, as the rubbish just gets shoved up into enormous piles on the roadsides and never gets picked up so things just get strewn all over again.

We had a full 36 hours away Up Country. We went to Koidu in the Kono District. There is still much evidence of the war damage. It's hard to believe that the Weekend Australian featured Sierra Leone as a travel destination. It seems like it's going to be awhile before a real tourist trade can be established here. Mind you, I haven't seen the coastal areas much, but I have seen lots of the other districts and the facilities are very basic or nonexistent.

We ended up not going to Kabala. Turns out the famous left behind girl will have to wait for a different MD. Her surgery is more specialised. There is a Dr. Smith from Vanderbilt who comes over and spends 10 days doing a marathon of work. We have a current list of 8 or so women for him, so hopefully he will be able to come soon. We did bring back 4 VVF patients for surgery at WAFF. One is a 15 year old girl who also has foot drop (nerve damage) as a result of a 4-day obstructed labor. Very sad. I am getting hold of a physical therapist today to train the nurses in her care.

When we arrived back at WAFF the women were all watching a DVD. When I walked in they all started clapping and chanting, "Helen, Helen". I feel like a movie star! The nurses are very sweet with the new patients, giving them welcome hugs. Unfortunately, due to a lack of bed space, some patients who have been here awhile will have to be moved to another hospital tomorrow. This just breaks my heart, as it feels like they are going into the gulag. This other hospital has no water, food or electricity!

Must be off now.
Much love, Helen

Tuesday, April 22, 2008

April 21, 2008

Birthday wishes come true. . .

It was very gratifying to see last week’s nocturnal brainstorm materialize very successfully this afternoon. My idea to have a party for the women of WAFF in honor of my own 54th birthday became more of an event than I ever imagined. Many thanks to all of you who have so generously donated to my cause. You have helped make these women at WAFF feel very happy. Their grins and constant words of tenk-hee, tenk-hee with singing and clapping gave me such pleasure, happiness and a sense of fulfillment. I feel that we have all made a positive impact for these women. It was truly a Gammy event. Thank you for giving me such a memorable birthday and to all who sent messages from afar too. I felt very loved and appreciated.













All the purchases to date: 25 colorful plastic chairs, 2 plastic tables, beach umbrellas for tables, 2 sewing machines, 2 washing machines, 2 dryers, 6 rolls of fabric for new hospital gowns… enough for 90 gowns, 20 newly sewn gowns, party favors for each patient…a toilet bag with new towels and a jar of zinc oxide were presented to them by me throughout the day. It made it fun to stretch out all the surprises. In the morning I set up the chairs, tables, and umbrellas and urged them all to get up and outside. They all oohed and aahed and stayed outside all morning through lunch time. I had also come across some good books for them from a second hand collection from the Alghali’s, my hosts, which they loved perusing.


























The day progressed with the presentation of their new uniforms at noontime. They were thrilled and all broke out in spontaneous song and dance…very sweet. After a bit of a rest we had ice cream (many had never tasted it), drinks and watermelon with the staff. More presentations, the sewing machines and the party favours, following a talk by me holding a blow up Earth to explain where my friends and family were to help illustrate how many people far and wide had donated to their cause. This was doubly translated into Krio and then into some of the tribal dialects.















I read the plaque which I had arranged to have made and, considering all the highly charged emotions, managed to pull it off with only a couple of voice cracks! While we were eating the cake for the birthday I share with Nurse Jackie, the washers and dryers were delivered. It was fantastic to witness their delighted expressions accompanied by more whoops, singing and clapping.

We had a few photos and then wrapped it up. Everyone should sleep well tonight.



















Now I want to ensure that the washer and dryer get hooked up properly. I will also train people how to use them. The dryers will not be necessary until the rainy season begins, probably within a month or so, and lasting through October. I have also lined up a staff person, Lansana, who is a trained tailor, to teach sewing. Some of them seem really eager to learn. Buying farm\garden tools and seeds is also on my list. For the women who rely on farming this will be of great assistance and also give them more independence. With Dr. Lewis I will help identify some possible scholarship recipients. The days will be full! Dr. Darius Maggi will be arriving from the USA on Friday and I am eager to meet with him.

Wednesday I am going Up Country again to retrieve more women. This time the destination will be to Koidu in the Kono District which is the diamond area in the eastern region. We will also go and get the girl in Kabala whom we had to leave behind on my first trip out.

I can feel the time slipping until it is time for my departure…still much work to be done.

Much love, Helen
WEDDING FESTIVITIES. . .

Last Thursday was a big day for WAFF. One of the nurses, Nancy Augustine, was getting married. Everyone had been anticipating the festivities with great excitement. When I received my very fancy invitation\wedding souvenir with the complete program of events included, I got a bit of a clue as to what was in store…it was going to be a BIG day.




















As per tradition in Sierra Leone, all guests who are part of a group, wear clothes of similar fabric. This helps identify who’s who and is termed ‘ashobi’. I was subsequently measured up and the next day presented my top and skirt by Lansana.















The wedding was to be at noon and due to the typical traffic gridlock in Freetown, we arrived at the Faith Baptist Church in Lumley about 15 minutes late. I was feeling disappointed to be missing the grand entrance procession. Not to worry! As per most events in Sierra Leone, everything runs late….at least an hour, including weddings! When we arrived the only clue that there was to be a wedding was an arch of balloons before the altar and a band tuning up in the corner. There were just a few guests milling about in their finest attire. Alyona said, “Have you heard of GMT? In Sierra Leone we are on BMT…Black Man’s Time.” We waited and waited, serenaded by the band which started belting out what I would term gospel reggae. It was ear splitting and the church was an oven.

Finally the bride arrived and the service began at 1:30. There was an entourage of adorable page boys and flower boys, ushers and bridesmaids dressed to the nines. The bride wore the quintessential white wedding dress and was positively sparkling under her veil.

There were 5 clergy people performing the service which had many prayers, hymns, and readings. It was relatively solemn. After the vows, the whole congregation broke into applause and joined the band in singing and dancing. It was wild and the church aisles were filled with jiving, dancing bodies. Per tradition the bride and groom each hold out a bag and turn to greet the congregation. Everyone formed a conga line up the aisle to give money and hugs. The bride was exceptionally radiant and had the hugest grin dancing with her friends as they came up in swarms. She was definitely the happiest bride I have ever seen.


















After this almost half hour interlude, things settled down again into sermons and hymns. Then there was another dancing interlude, as well as a repeat of the offering to the bride and groom, but this time the money was for the church.

Finally we were near the end of the program when the marriage certificate was to be signed. Here it is not just signed by two people, but actually many family and friends who are called up one by one. As this is happening many of the groups got up to sing and dance, including the WAFF group. It was all a very amazing scene. When this process was finally completed there was a grand processional with everyone closing in behind the newlyweds singing and dancing. After photos on the church steps we departed. It was about 4:30. I was about to keel over with dehydration, as in the rush to get to the church on time I had neglected to take my water bottle.

We returned home to rest as the reception was to be at 7:00 that night. We arrived at 7:30 anticipating BMT, but our timing was still off. Things didn’t kick off until almost 9PM. The bride and groom entered in matching shimmering golden outfits and sat at a table with their wedding party. An interminable amount of speeches followed, including a series of introductions to the introducer of the introducer to the introducer of the emcee for the evening! Then there were more toasts and responses to the toasts, with offerings and presents given.

By 11:00 dinner was just getting served and Gwen and I were ready for bed and decided to head home.

I was very lucky to be able to experience this slice of Sierra Leone’s culture and couldn’t help contrasting it to the wedding Judy and I attended in Kashmir last April.

Saturday, April 19, 2008

Sunday, April 20, 2008

‘Tenk-hee, tenk-hee’. . .


Dearest friends and family,

‘Tenk-hee, tenk-hee’ is Krio for thank you, thank you!

Wow, I am flabbergasted, deeply touched and thrilled by the absolutely phenomenal response to my birthday idea. Your generosity and support really moves me, especially knowing how much this will mean to the women of Sierra Leone. It seems that the grand total is going to be in the $6000 range!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have been very busy this week making purchases for WAFF and getting set for the big celebration which will be on Monday. Shopping in Freetown has been quite the experience. Not exactly pulling into a Target or Reny's parking lot and coming out in a ‘one stop shop’!!!! It really has been fun, but challenging too!















To date, I have bought 25 plastic outdoor chairs of all colours, 2 tables and table umbrellas for the little garden. This will be such a nice spot for the women and staff to hang out. Now the women sit on the steps in the breezeway. I have also bought two sewing machines (a treadle and a hand one), enough nice cotton fabric for 100 new hospital gowns... in vibrant purple, turquoise and pink.































Each women and about 100 more to come, will get a toilet bag with a small towel, soap, toothpaste, toothbrush, a jar of zinc oxide (the urine makes their skin completely raw and this is the best for soothing healing). Today I topped off the purchases with 2 commercial grade ‘made in the USA’ washers and dryers at an auction at the US Embassy...such a deal $186 USD!!! They are in prime condition. This will be great...all the laundry currently is being done by hand!















I have many other ideas...one is to sponsor a patient to get her nursing degree and also to buy farm/garden tools and seeds for women when they go back to their villages. I will keep you posted.



















Monday we will have the party (Monday is also the birthday of one of the nurses here) and it promises to be very festive. I will be sure to send some photos, but in the meantime here are a few for you.













The staff here at WAFF are so excited and in awe of everyone's generosity and knowing that many people care for their welfare.

This is going to definitely be one of my most memorable birthdays!!!
Much love and gratitude to you all, Helen

Thursday, April 17, 2008

Thursday, April 17, 2008

WAFF TALES. . .

BE PREPARED…THIS IS A LONG ENTRY!

I can already feel the angst of departure from this special community of people at West Africa Fistula Foundation. Despite knowing them for just a short while, they already feel like friends.

Arriving to the Foundation in the morning is one of my favourite times of the day. The cheerful and beautiful nurses exude a refreshing air of merriment as they transfer shifts. One of them is getting married this week and they are excited by the upcoming festivities. They giggle in anticipation of seeing me decked out in traditional dress!







It is a rather cosy scene in the ward, despite knowing how much suffering all these women have endured. They are awaiting surgery or here for the usual fortnight of postoperative care. The previous day’s post op patients are getting progressively better. Due to a shortage of beds, many have to double up in a single bed, but they don’t seem to mind. There is no complaining, they are all grateful to have been delivered to the refuge that WAFF offers. They have all lost at least one child and all have vesicovaginal fistula (VVF) and some have recto vaginal fistula (RVF) as a result of having had an obstructed labor, leaving them constantly leaking urine or feces, or sometimes both. This leads to social isolation. To be blunt they are virtual leaking septic tanks. One can only imagine what they have also had to endure as a result of the civil war and the atrocities of the rebel forces. It would be wonderful to speak their languages, but most speak only tribal dialects. One young woman, a homeless orphan, needs more sophisticated surgery than WFF can offer. She has found her niche as she can translate many of the dialects into Crio for the staff. There is a former patient who had surgery last year who now does laundry. Most of the women hang out outdoors in the afternoons and braid one another’s hair and chatter amongst themselves. Their camaraderie is palpable as they share one and another’s plight.

WAFF’s in-country triumvirate at the “top” consists of Gwen Alghali, Dr. Alyona Lewis and Samuel Pieh. I feel privileged knowing all of them.

Gwen Alghali, the administrator and one of WAFF\s founders, has been wonderful helping me sort out the plans for my birthday celebration next week. She has many connections in Freetown and knows exactly where to go for the best deals. She and her husband Olu are my current hosts and are ensuring my comfort and good health.

Dr. Alyona Lewis, WAFF’s medical director and surgeon, is a gem of an individual. She is truly extraordinary and inspirational as she dedicates her life to these women. I relish the time I can be with her. There is much to learn from her insights and sensitivity. She is a true advocate for the women of her country and has such a tender and compassionate bedside manner.

Sam Pieh, the country director and my first host, has wisdom, humor and love for humanity which makes everyone feel a sense of security in his presence.

I have had the opportunity to accompany the WAFF staff on two trips Up Country to drop off or retrieve women. There is a network of chiefs and other focal people in remote communities who find these women and refer them to WAFF. Going on these trips has been very enlightening in terms of seeing where these women come from and also seeing some remote areas of Sierra Leone. There is much remaining evidence of the war and poverty is very apparent.





























Mr. Peacemaker, a medical assistant in Kabala in the Koinadugu District, is a colorful character who had collected 5 women for this trip from Guinea for WAFF’s services. He was obviously very caring and ready to help these women. It was absolutely heart wrenching that one girl who he had referred was assessed as a more complicated surgical case which resulted in leaving her behind. Seeing her sitting under a tree with her little bag packed for Freetown when we drove off was an unforgettable image. Luckily, she will be coming to town soon to see Dr. Maggi.





























Last weekend we went to an area in the interior of the Bombali District north of Makeni. We had one woman, Fatmata, who we were taking home and another, Hawa, taking a break from her post op time, to accompany us to her village as PR person and to help spread the word about WAFF.





























Both women were obviously excited and exuded a sense of confidence as they were out in the world in their new state of being “dry”. We left Fatmata at the chaotic bus station in Makeni as her home was another 3 hour drive to the east. She was thrilled to recognize friends in the market as we bought her ticket. Leaving her there made me feel as though we were releasing a rehabilitated bird to soar out into the wild.

We progressed onwards down a rough road for about two hours to Hawa’s village. Her smile got progressively larger as we reached her home territory and she waved and shouted to friends working out in the fields. When she first saw her daughter it was VERY touching.

The village of Kagbere was ready for our arrival thanks to the groundwork done by Wullamatu, one of WAFF nurses who had arrived the night before. We were officially greeted by the Paramount Chief Kandeh Finoh III, an impressive man, dressed in a golden brocaded suit with a velveteen quasi leopard skin fez-like hat. He has been a wonderful advocate for the women from his chiefdom who suffer from obstetric fistula.



















As we approached the open air under cover area there was a large group of women congregated to welcome Hawa home. The Paramount Chief had also assembled about 25 pregnant women to hear our presentation to raise education and awareness about obstetric fistula prevention. It was a fantastic scene. After about ten minutes of singing, dancing and whooping , everyone from the team gave a speech including me! Hawa gave a moving testimonial, as well as Manjay, another woman who’d had surgery in February. We were also able to distribute prenatal/postpartum infant kits, prenatal vitamins and hygiene kits.

We then went to the health clinic and did the screening and assessment of four women with fistulas. Their stoic behaviour during the very uncomfortable examination is remarkable. They just grit their teeth and wince, but never make a peep. All were deemed good surgical candidates by Nurse Jackie and would accompany us back to WAFF.

After a meal with the chief we all piled into the van for the five hour trip back to Freetown. As we drove out two live chickens were shoved through the window as parting gifts. It was a day to remember!















There is actually much more to relate, but enough for now. I am now half way through my stint here and I imagine my remaining time will be jam-packed.



















Monday, April 14, 2008

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

‘Boh-dee fine’. . .

‘How-dee boh-dee’… How are you?

‘Boh-dee fine’ . . . I am fine.

This is a bit of Crio I have picked up. There are over 12 languages spoken in Sierra Leone, so learning bits and pieces of all of them is testing my brain power, but Crio is the predominant non-colonial language. Crio is very sing-songy and fun to listen to, with a large smattering of English and bits of French and Spanish thrown in for good measure.

Last week was mostly spent in the Bo District about 5 hours from Freetown in the township of Taiama which is the ancestral home of Samuel Pieh, WAFF’s country director. Samuel and his wife Clara were my hosts for the first week of my stay here. Samuel is the great, great grandson of the Mende slave Sengbe Pieh, who led the revolt in 1839 to obtain freedom while being shipped from one Cuban port to another. This saga was depicted in Steven Spielberg’s 1997 film, 'Amistad'. Sam was actually in the movie as well as working as a dialect coach for the filming.

When I first contacted Sam from Maine just three weeks ago he asked if I would be going Up Country with a medical team. Of course, my response was an enthusiastic yes. Sam was to be a co-leader of a 7 member medical team from Tennessee and West Virginia. All seven are all members of the First United Methodist Church. Sam has so much on his plate that he had neglected to mention to them that I was going to accompany them on their 6 day mission. Despite their initial surprise by my presence and plan to accompany them, they were immediately welcoming and grateful. We quickly meshed well as a team and we were all fulfilled by the experience.

Primarily I worked alongside Dr. Debi Selby, a pediatrician, who was able to teach me a lot. It was a great opportunity for me to gain more ‘in the field 'experience. Over the four days we managed to see over 400 children. Worms, malnutrition, upper respiratory conditions, scabies and fungal skin conditions were the most prevalent conditions we treated.

Sam arranged for us to do a mobile clinic in the village of Pujehun in the Kori chiefdom, which was a terrific experience and a trip highlight. We were delivered to the Tai River by our faithful and expert drivers and then transferred to a dugout canoe for the river crossing. It took four trips to get all of us and our supplies across. We then walked about 3 miles through the bush to a quintessentially African village with thatched roofed, circular mud-brick houses.

Upon returning to Freetown we had a farewell dinner where we all toasted each other with tears and laughter. Everyone had been touched deeply by the shared experiences.
Sam topped the evening off by arranging a surprise visit from the recently appointed Minister of Health, Soccah Alex Kabi M.D., who informed us that he had been able to make arrangements with the government and UNICEF to have oxygen converters delivered to Sierra Leone in the very near future. We all cheered and felt that there is hope and steady positive progress for Sierra Leone in the realm of health care delivery.

Love, Helen


Dear Family and Friends,
I have never been very brave about asking for donations (fundraising makes me squeamish), but I had a bit of a brainstorm in the middle of the night. Next Sunday is my 54th birthday... I know it’s not a very auspicious year, but I would love to have people help me celebrate it by donating funds of ANY AMOUNT to West Africa Fistula Foundation (WAFF)
http://www.westafricafistulafoundation.org/ the organisation I am currently volunteering for in Sierra Leone. If you decide you want to do this, and don't mind sharing the amount of your donation, please email me so that I can plan a bit of a budget. If I could raise $1000, over and above what I personally plan to donate, it would be fantastic! In the spirit of my paternal grandmother, Gammy, I would love to have a "Chinese" birthday celebration here. She always gave presents on her birthday and this is what I would like to do for the WAFF women.

I would love to get some very basic outdoor furniture and some new hospital gowns etc. etc. I would also like to get a sewing machine for training purposes. It's not just the money which is important, but if the women realised that many people out in the world care about their plight I am sure it would boost their morale considerably.


Please see the letter from Dr. Maggi below. He is WAFF's "patron saint" in the USA. I look forward to meeting him when he is here at the end of next week. Mark cheques with "Helen's fund" at the bottom. I will ensure that the funds are spent on special and sustainable items. Thanks for any donation you can manage. You can also go onto the WAFF website and donate by credit card using Paypal.

Much love, Helen


Dr. Maggi's letter:

Dear Helen,

Thanks so much for your email and willingness to evaluate the program. When I get over there I will discuss with you more in detail. As you see there is so much to do in Sierra Leone and the people are absolutely wonderful BUT as you see there are obstacles that can be very frustrating.

Donations can be sent to:

West Africa Fistula Foundation
c/o Darius R. Maggi
3621 Pottsboro Road #150
Denison, Texas 75020

All donations are absolutely tax deductible and we send out tax letters every year to every donor no matter how much they donate. We are a 501(c)3 non-profit.

I know I told you that we have no administrative expenses in the U.S.A. and I do not take one red cent from the foundation nor does any one else in the U.S.A. use any of the money for anything.

Thanks for all you do and I will see you next week.

Darius

Friday, April 11, 2008

Saturday, April 12, 2008
Email Bits & Photos. .

Here are a few extracts from several emails interspersed with some great photos. Helen hopes to put together a proper post in a few days.










I spent 5 days with a team from Tennessee doing clinics in Taiama near Bo, where we saw about 400 children total. There was a stillbirth and an impending infant death while we there. Upon our departure, a woman tried to leave her two children with us to "take home".




We are heading up country to Bombali District (to the northeast) tomorrow for another long day, to pick up 7 more patients for surgery and "return" two. They are so sweet and grateful. I love handing out chocolate to them. . .pure delight in their faces.





People should be encouraged to go to the WAFF website and click on the ‘What is a Fistula’ tab on the right and in the drop down, watch the video which has no sound in the first bit. It's very powerful.



Sam Pieh , my host and current
country director of the program




Today there was a shortage of disinfectant, laundry soap and salt for their Sitz baths. . . the budget is very tight. This is such an intense place.











Saturday, April 5, 2008

Sunday, April 06, 2008

Up Country. . .


I went up to Kabala in the NW near the Guinea border with one of the OR nurses, about 10 hours of driving, to assess 5 women for surgery who had been "collected" by a man named Peacemaker. Four of them got to go and the other one had to wait due to her case being more complex. She was devastated to be left behind. They are such lovely women and just very amazing to rescue them and deliver them to WAFF where they will have the surgery next week.

Today, I visited the PCMH, the public maternity hospital. Wow. No oxygen, no running water, no blood etc. etc., in fact no oxygen at any hospital in SL. There were two women in the labor rooms, one had just delivered a stillbirth and the other had an obstructed labor and was waiting for a section (could have been another few hours), a VVF inevitable. Very sad.

Departing tomorrow for ‘up country’. We will head to Bo and the other eastern districts with a medical team from the USA doing mobile clinics. We’ll return to Freetown next Thursday. Have no clue about any internet access in that part of the country, so it might be a while till you hear from me. I’m lucky to have the chance to see so much of the country.

Freetown is an abysmal place...polluted and utterly congested with traffic all the time. Tomorrow is the monthly clean up day in Freetown. No traffic allowed until midday unless you have police clearance, so we probably won't depart until early PM. Freetown makes La Paz seem like bucolic Yungaburra!

Love, Helen

Tuesday, April 1, 2008

Monday, March 31, 2008

Glad to be here. . .

It has been a smooth bit of travel, with just a few hiccups. The spirit of the Sierra Leone people is very apparent right from the beginning. Lots of laughter and dancing in the aisles as the plane prepares for takeoff. They were still up when the plane was backing off from the gangway; lots of clapping and singing upon landing.

Despite arriving late at night the airport is utterly chaotic, but I’m met by a Mr. Bangura amidst the throngs who ushered me through the queues. Then there’s a 2-hour wait at the airport hotel for the WAFF driver to arrive.

Getting to Freetown, with an estimated population of about one million and across the bay from Lungi Airport, is a bit of an ordeal. A very quick hi/bye with Dara from Stanford as she is about to depart and I am shuttled off with Kabbe Jallo the driver. He drives very fast, but expertly, through the night for about 30 minutes to catch the ferry. Alas, there is a long line and the ferry people decide to not do another run that night, unless everyone in the line (about 38 cars) forks out more $. It's quite a lively scene as people carry huge loads on their heads awaiting the takeoff for town. Then it's definitely not going. I just crawl into the back of the car and sleep for a few hours. Awake to the sound of roosters and music, BBC news and the calls to prayer at the mosque which is very remindful of Kashmir. I’m glad to have the luxury of my polar fleece as a pillow.

I am then delivered safely through crazy Freetown to the residence of Mr. Pieh, WAFF’s country director, where I was well looked after. Now I am waiting at the hospital to meet him and get a bit of an orientation. I am very glad to be here and feel lucky, looking ahead to working with these lovely people.

Love, Helen