Transitions. . .

Sitting at Heathrow airport awaiting the flight to Boston I watch and listen to the melting pot of cultures and languages. I’m in my own little bubble as I make the transition from my community of friends and “family” in Bo to my community of family and friends in Maine and beyond. It seems that the layover is a good one as it gives me a chance to absorb a bit of the past few weeks in Sierra Leone, especially the past few days. I have wanted to catch up prior to this, but there literally has been no lull in the action.

After the move of supplies out of Holy Mary Hospital, the patients remained in the ward. Their spirits remained high as they felt the buzz of adrenaline from the staff as we made the necessary preparations for the shift to the new ward at Bo Government Hospital. Once again, I marvel at the dedication of the staff, really pitching in and go the extra ten miles with the long hours and willingness to do a variety of jobs. It’s good to get new life and energy pumped into this place. There is a mass grave of 280 people a stone’s throw away which is very sobering. A future project will be to spruce it up and plant a memorial flower garden.

Bids were procured from local contractors for the painting, new screens, and windows, electrical work. The work began right away and it was a proverbial beehive of activity and exciting to return every few hours to see the transformation in progress. It seemed as though it would be possible to get the women moved on Monday.

































Meanwhile, a memorandum of understanding had been drafted and agreed upon and official meetings were abundant, as well as discussions late into the night (sometimes debriefing the afternoon meeting or preparing for the next) at the guest house. Julia, Darius and I are all high achieving list-making doers and we were pulling out all the stops ensuring that the bases were covered. Samuel Pieh came from Monrovia, Liberia for the weekend which was wonderful. His insights and advice are always valuable.






















As per the local custom and protocol, arrangements were made to meet with local dignitaries and government officials to be formally introduced and welcomed. Saturday AM we (Darius, Samuel, Julia, Helen, Benjamin and John) were escorted by Dr. Koroma, our medical director and the superintendent of Bo Government Hospital to the home of the Paramount Chief of the Kakua Chiefdom, Rashid Komanda-Bongay IV. After the formal greetings in Mende and Krio and the presentation of the traditional gift of a bottle of gin and money, the paramount chief insisted that we go to his office since this is where the traditional welcoming ceremony must occur. We piled back into the Cruiser and followed him in his old, but pristine yellow Mercedes back to his office. We were ushered in front of his massive desk and seated into large chairs. He gave a talk and then we all spoke too. To finish off the meeting, we all stood and gathered at the door, while he stooped at the threshold and held a large glass of gin and said a long chanting prayer. It was quite dramatic, especially as he was dressed in a traditional long robe. Afterwards, there was a photo op for the press.

Saturday afternoon we had a staff meeting in the guest house dining room. People have concerns and are tired. Regular communication is always a bottom line. New T-shirts were presented and Amanda gave out sunglasses which lifted spirits.



















That evening Darius, Julia and I went to Samuel Pieh’s homestead in Taiama to visit his farm. Before dinner we walked in the pouring rain for mile or so to see the flourishing rice fields and his happy goats. It was good to be outside just enjoying simple things.

Sunday AM, another core meeting with Dr. Koroma after a morning walk. Then back to the BGH to check on the progress as well as enjoying the vision of new gardens in the large spaces at the rear of the building which the women and volunteers can work on together. Our tranquil moment was interrupted by Amanda ringing to say that the women had all walked down to the guest house to get water from the well since the water at Holy Mary had been turned off by Dr. Soyei the proprietor! Not exactly a nice move on his part, not to mention illegal.

Rather than fight it we all sprung into action, returning to HM as fast as possible. We had agreed to just make do and put the women into a temporary situation at BGH. When we arrived back the women were all packed up and ready to go. They were excited and looked like a flock of beautiful birds as Jackie, the head nurse, got them all into the van and the Cruiser and off they went, the roof of the Cruiser loaded with their stuff. Within about a half hour we cleared out the last of our goods down to the last bucket and paperclip and loaded it all into Dr. Koroma’s pick up. We left the place spotless, with everything in order.

Off to the next meeting at 3 with Darius and Dr. Koroma to meet with the medical coordinators of MSF. Their hospital is due to close at the end of 2010. They are very interested to hear our plans for health care and the resurrection of BGH due to our presence. It was valuable to make the connection with them. At the end of the meeting, we waited outside the gate for a few minutes for Poppa’s pickup (he had been moving the last of the stuff). Just as he drives up, two MSF Vehicles pull out and the Med. Coordinator we had just met with says there has been an accident “just down the road” involving 20-30 people. We pile in and follow them, figuring 2 doctors and a nurse could be of assistance. We end up driving for almost an hour to a rather remote destination off the beaten track. A large truck loaded with passengers and goods had overturned. By the time we arrived everything was under control, though the truck was still over on its side and surrounded by about a hundred people praying in gratitude that there had been no fatalities. The people with injuries had already been removed. Despite there being nothing for us to do, people appreciated our desire to assist and we returned to Bo.


























The last event of the day was a goodbye party for me at Dr. Koroma’s house. The nurses prepared a lovely dinner with his wife Judith. There was dancing to country music, a couple of touching speeches and the presentation of lovely handmade clothes by Auntie K. to top off the BIG day.










































Monday AM, awake to pack and have a briefing with Julia, who will be essential in terms of continuity until my return in early January. Off to three more meetings…the parliamentarian secretary, the mayor and the head of the district council. Nothing like cramming things in until the last minute!

A pregnant woman with polio. . .

























Back to the hospital and I take the women down to see the progress on the ward. They clap with excitement. They are just then realizing that I am taking off and many weep as they see me weep, especially as they sing a goodbye song. They touch me in such a deep place.



















More difficult goodbyes and I am finally off to catch the ferry in Freetown driven by Kabba. Auntie K comes too and teaches me some Mende words before we drop her at her village near Freetown. During the five hour drive, I can already feel the start of the transition back into my “other” world. I have some time to absorb some of the African essence; the verdant country side, the bumpy road, the hubbub of the marketplace at Moyamba Junction, the sights of children playing in the full creeks, waving village children yelling “Oputoo, oputoo” (foreign person), the smells of rain, fresh monkey meat for sale, witnessing a gigantic funeral procession at Mile 91, passing a stuck bus and an overturned truck.

I arrive at the ferry terminal and Kabba helps me arrange transport to the airport from the other side. It’s always a chaotic scene there, but it feels good to be familiar with it all. I hug Kabba goodbye and head off into the throng. A huge rainbow over the water is my last image. I am already looking forward to my return.

Love, Helen

Departure Snippets. . .

Sunday:
The day started out pretty routinely...a walk and then some hang out time for about ten minutes. Then off to a meeting with the core group, then off to Bo Government Hospital to see the progress on the new ward with all the painting etc. It should be done tomorrow. Then a frantic call from one of the nurses saying the water had been turned off at Holy Mary. Quick action by all and we moved all the patients, their stuff and the last of our stuff...then a productive 2 hour meeting with MSF.

When we were waiting for Poppa to come and pick us up, the MSF people drove out saying there was a huge accident "just down the road" involving about 30 people. Poppa drives up and off we go.. turns out it was about a n hour away and not exactly on a great road. A huge truck loaded with people and goods had overturned on this muddy road way back into the bush. We got there and there were about 100 people praying. Luckily no one was killed. We didn't stay long as things were under control. Then back to the hospital to check on the patients then to Dr. Koroma's where they threw a big good bye party with food and dancing, speeches and presents (including an outfit for you!). All so sweet. There is still much to be done tonight with packing and loose ends. Tomorrow AM a meeting with the mayor and the minister. Off to the airport by noonish. Flight leaves at 0200.
Phew. . .

Monday:
I am now safely at Heathrow and just hanging for a few hours greeted by the headline news that the bailout was rejected and the market has crashed 700+ points!

I had an uneventful journey to Lungi, though did see the Freetown bus in a ditch, another huge truck overturned and a traffic gridlock at Mile 91 due to an enormous funeral procession. No sweat getting the ferry and managed some catnaps at Lungi. PLENTY OF ROOM on the plane to stretch out too.

I’m due to arrive back to Boston Tuesday night. I’ll try and put a blog together and add some more photos after the dust settles.

Love, Helen

"When Dr. Maggi arrives. . ."

Before my arrival the litany apparently had been "When Helen arrives….", and after my arrival the litany switched to "when Dr. Maggi arrives…." There was just so much business to tend to and I was not in a position to make any executive decisions. However, I was able to see some red flags flying concerning the agreement with the Holy Mary Hospital proprietor which needed to be clarified immediately. I was able to relay my concerns to Dr. Maggi via email and alert him to the situation prior to his arrival.

Without going into any great detail, let it be said that A LOT happened within the first 24 hours of Dr. Maggi's arrival. It was clear that the situation was going to be non-negotiable with Holy Mary and after a variety of several meetings the decision was made at 0800 to move the whole operation to Bo Government Hospital. Never say anything is impossible!

All the medical equipment and all the supplies (including the huge autoclave and all the contents of the container) were moved out within 3 hours. It was as though a mountain had been moved, almost literally. It was amazing to witness the loyalty of the staff, the local community (including small children carrying boxes of vitamins on their heads), as well as the patients who helped move everything. Everyone worked so hard. No tears, no blood, but copious amounts of sweat. We were lucky that the monsoonal rains held off, too. Plus, we got another rat!

The women are still in residence at Holy Mary and will move out on Saturday. We have arranged for a ward at Bo Government Hospital which will be terrific. This AM painters, window screeners and electricians are beginning to transform their ward.

It has been a swirl as one can imagine, but all seems as though it has been "meant to be" and a blessing in disguise. It will ultimately be a much better arrangement which will benefit more people in Sierra Leone.

Vivienne Walt has written an article, ‘Death in Birth’, click here, in the September 29th issue of TIME (cover is the crying bull regarding the failing economy) which describes the deplorable maternal mortality rates in Sierra Leone. We are definitely in the right place doing the right thing.

More later. There is so much I want/need to do before I depart on Monday night.
Love, Helen

Photos. . .

Here are some recent photos.This is just a randonm assortment for now. Tomorrow we depart early for Freetown for a day of errands and then meeting Darius and Amanda.

Sad news today. . .

Isatu's baby died in the night. She was devastated. We transferred her back to Holy Mary and all the women were so sweet, welcoming her back into the fold of their sisterhood. We contacted a new friend Cathy, a pastor from Ohio who is travelling all over Africa with her Emergency Room doctor husband Dan, and they came over this afternoon. We gathered all the women and Cathy led a wonderful service for the women and all the staff to honor Sarah's and Isatu's babies who have died in the past 48 hours. Jackie, the head nurse translated into Krio and Kadiatu (the cleaner who is also a patient) translated for Sarah into her language and Poppa (the driver) translated into Temne for Isatu. Everyone was so sweet and loving. It felt like it was important to bring everyone together. The singing was lovely and uplifting and I would challenge anyone not to have shed a few tears.

Tomorrow we will tackle the organising of the container goods. Ongoing preparations are underway for Dr. Maggi and Amanda's arrival on Monday.

Love, Helen

PS: I forgot to mention one thing that made the service (and all the evening prayers) special is that they all do Christian prayers and then Muslim prayers regardless of their faith. It's very moving to see "interfaith" really at work in terms of how much they all support and care for each other despite religious differences.

Also we caught a rat!!!!

Tense Moments. . .

It's predawn and it has been bucketing "full bore fire hose" rain for the past several hours, with a bit of lightning thrown in for good measure, so no morning walk.

My jaw aches because I realise I had it clenched all night. Yesterday was pretty overwhelming with the container's arrival and a few very tense moments getting it unloaded. During all this we heard that one of our patients who has been over at the Bo Govt. Hospital lost her second premature twin last night. In the afternoon we went over to the hospital and found that Isatu's baby born by C-Section on Wednesday was in a rather precarious situation and needed resuscitation. It all underlines even more how necessary it is to get our facility up and running.

After a totally exhausting 48 hours for John and Benjamin (they have been working round the clock) they were thwarted in dealing with the red tape of getting a death certificate for the baby before it can be buried. This will happen first thing in the AM.

Organising all the container contents will now be the order of business. Maybe it will be a bit cooler doing this on a rainy day.

Another item on the ‘to do’ list is getting a rat trap. We have a very wily fellow who has managed to chew through bottom of the wooden door and comes right in and makes himself at home!

That’s all for now, the battery on my computer is very low. More pix to follow next time.

Love, Helen

NEWS FLASH!!!

The container has arrived safely! John drove in the cab of the truck 12 hours from Freetown and arrived in Bo at 0400. Due to the recent heavy rains the road conditions have worsened. They took it slowly due to all the fragile equipment aboard. It is in the process of getting unloaded now. The process of getting everything sorted, inventoried
and stored will begin, which will be quite a monumental task! John did a terrific job getting things sorted out at the port....infinite patience prevails! This is a hot-off -the -press photo.

Bo. . .

The days seem to be melting together into a bit of a routine, though I hope I never think of experiencing African realms as ‘routine’.

The past few mornings I have been waking up before dawn and walking/running with Poppa, one of the drivers. He bundles up in his jacket and warm hat despite the heat and humidity and off we go down the Koribondo road. I am awakened anyway by early calls to prayers in a distant mosque and the din of peepers, so it’s good to just get up and get in some exercise, especially since the monsoonal rains are torrential every afternoon. We walk mostly in silence, but intersperse the reverie with “boowah” (Mende for hello) to a few passing people walking in the dawn light towards town. Poppa then sprints ahead, does push ups and other exercises while he waits for me to catch up. We then walk together and I even jog a bit. This is the pattern for the hour and a half session. It is lovely to be out watching the rising mists from the palm trees and hear the dawn chorus. At times I feel like I could be on my walk near Lake Eacham, except when a child goes by with an enormous load on his/her head of cassava leaves headed to the local markets and I am transported back to the here and now of Bo, Sierra Leone.

As I walk, I try to collect my thoughts about all that is happening. The constant theme in my head is thinking of the women here who I am serving and trying to make an improvement in their lives. What the women with obstetric fistula must endure is unfathomable; dealing with the constant stench of draining urine, the misery and hard work of keeping as dry and clean as possible, the excoriated skin as a result of the urine, the depression and all the social implications. Despite all this, it is even more amazing to witness their frequent spontaneous eruptions into song and dance. Currently the youngest on the ward of 26 is 15 and the oldest is about 35.

There are several in their late teens who often tease each other by hiding under the beds and then springing out for a bit of a pillow fight. Their hardy spirits are definitely palpable. Even though I can’t speak Mende or Temne, the local tribal languages, I have managed to learn all their names and it is good to be able to greet them by name as I pass through the ward. Last Sunday when they didn’t have literacy classes, I sat with them and let them take turns plaiting my hair. I got many of them to put the chairs in a circle and we all did backrubs on each other. Lots of giggles!

I have also had the pleasure of having Julia Robinson with me. Her company is wonderful and it is great to have her insights and assistance. We are getting the volunteer guest house situated and ready for Dr. Maggi and Amanda Counce’s arrival next week. We have set up a bit of a gas burner, have hurricane lamps and a good water system. Once the house has power, things will be different, but for now we are managing well.
It’s cosy having evening chats and debrief together about the day.






































I have been having a few meetings concerning the hospital facility which have been challenging and teaching me more about management. We also had a visit with the medical coordinators of MSF and visited their clinics and hospital. Their organisation is certainly impressive. This AM we observed Dr. Koroma doing a Cesarean section on one of our patients at the Bo Government Hospital. His expertise was apparent and reassuring to know that we have an excellent surgeon as our medical director.

We are working out the internet with a portable wireless modem. We use it most when we have access to power, to ensure that the battery doesn’t go kaput, hence the spotty replies and email activity. The heavy rains seem to affect it too.

Some good news: The container SHOULD be released tomorrow!

The news from the USA is as daunting as ever. Love hearing from people, so keep writing to helenweld@gmail.com when you have a minute.

Love,
Helen

Big Day Ahead. . .

Up predawn in Bo this AM for the 4+ hour trip to Freetown. It's a big day ahead. Hoping to get the paperwork all signed and sorted for the release of the container, which is filled with medical equipment and supplies. The other big event is greeting new volunteer Julia Robinson (Thacher '04, Columbia '08) tonight at Lungi Airport. Excited to have her here and show her around.

The images whipping by in the early light were quite beautiful as we left Bo....mist rising through the verdant fields, women walking with loads of wood on their heads with the ubiquitous adorable babes swaddled on their backs, children rolling bike rims with sticks, lazy dogs in the middle of the road and goats munching the grass. Stopped en route and bought some bananas and peanuts from the car window for breakfast from women carrying huge loads on their heads. They grin with the purchase and move on.

As I dozed, I could feel the proximity to Freetown (approx: 1.2 million people) as the stop and go traffic began, mostly stop. Then the visions of the urban sprawl begin. Vendors appear at the window selling everything...laundry soap, pirated CDs, watches, trinkets, phone cards, nail polish...you name it.

Now I am in Samuel Pieh's former office taking a break. There seems to be a glitch with the paperwork with the container's release which is most frustrating. Good people are working on the situation and fingers crossed they will prevail over the red tape which seems to be appear at each turn.

Yesterday afternoon and evening I got to just hang out with the women awaiting their fistula repairs. I took photos of them all (26 total) and wrote their names down in hopes that I can recall all their names by tomorrow when I return to Bo with Julia. They danced and sang and hooted and hollered which is part of their daily routine. Participating melts away the frustrations momentarily, but then enforces the need to get the container here pronto so that we can get things rolling.

Helen

Touching welcome. . .

It POURED last night for several hours, rivaling FNQ...wowser! I was awake for awhile and let my thoughts drift to all the images and doings over the past few days. It's a swirl. I feel as though I have been here for at least a week with all that has happened and all the people I have seen.

Absolutely terrific to be greeted by John and Poppa at the airport. Waiting for my bags, I felt like an "old timer" as I watched and assisted newcomers. It is a good feeling to not be TOTALLY green!

On the ferry I watched all the locals visit with their families as we were entertained by dancing muscle bound dwarves trying to earn their way in the world. The spirit was festive with the Paul Simon and his band's music despite the late hour. The delightful colourful fabric and the lovely faces abound. It is good to be back in Africa!

I’m now in Bo and getting into a bit of a routine. The hospital is spacious and the 24 fistula patients awaiting surgery all look healthy and happy. There has been an adult education class initiated, as well as craft classes, so that is great.

My welcome was very touching. Singing and dancing, lots of clapping, all very sweet and boisterous.

There is much to be done, so I will get back to it all.

Love,
Helen

September 4, 2008

Reactivating blog...off to Sierra Leone

The lists are almost crossed off and I am heading off tomorrow until the end of the month to work with/for the West Africa Institute (the new umbrella organisation for the West Africa Fistula Foundation) in Bo, Sierra Leone. This trip will be comprised of unloading the 40 foot container which has just arrived from Texas and getting the groundwork laid for future volunteers. It's good to be returning to a familiar place and friends. I have a rather odd assortment of items in my bags including medical and nursing books, random medical supplies, medicines and 1000 donated condoms.

It's getting late and my writer friend Jenn Barton who will coming with me in January for a few weeks when I return for about 4 months, has just written a wonderful goodbye note which I will do my best to assimilate. This is an excerpt:

"The only certainty about Africa is uncertainty, and yet, within the context of that uncertainty lie the most rich and life-affirming gifts. So embrace the unknown, allow things to unfold as they may, and don't forget to enjoy each day, the beauty of that incredible earth mirrored in the faces of beautiful people...can't wait to join you."

I am excited. I will also keep positively focused on the unfolding political saga in the USA and trust that hope will prevail over fear.

Please keep in touch via email.
Helen

“Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful,
committed citizens can change the world. . .
Indeed, it is the only thing that ever has.” MARGARET MEAD


Mead’s words seemed to be the theme of the last week I spent in Sierra Leone. Once Dr. Maggi arrived, conversations flowed, ideas percolated and the wheels were set in motion.

Thanks to the energy, compassion and vision of a few committed Individuals, there are exciting opportunities ahead for health care in Sierra Leone. I am privileged to have been on the periphery of this circle of positive change and it appears as though I can be part of this new frontier as the future unfolds.

It has become increasingly clear for a variety of reasons (economic, social and logistical) that WAFF needed to move out of Freetown and head Up Country. There were many discussions and brainstorming talks as plans and ideas evolved.

My final weekend in Sierra Leone was spent assessing potential sites for WAFF throughout the central and eastern provincial districts . It was an extraordinary opportunity to see many hospitals and clinics first hand, as well as meet many key people in health care. Samuel Pieh works wonders with his endless supply of contacts and his cell phone which enabled us to pack in valuable meetings everywhere we went.

It seems as though we have secured an absolutely ideal location for WAFF in Bo, which could well become a prototype health center for all of West Africa. (More details to follow).

For everyone who has ever said that they wanted to work with me somewhere, this will be your opportunity in the months and years ahead. We definitely CAN & WILL MAKE A DIFFERENCE in Sierra Leone. There will be volunteer opportunities for everyone and there should be safe and secure accommodation available too. It is all very exciting.

I will be in touch with all of you who have ever expressed an interest in volunteering (I have an ongoing list!) when I return to Maine. I will continue to do blog postings too despite not being "out in the world".

Meanwhile, I am in Paris for a few days enjoying the company of Philip and Monica. I am cushioned from too much culture shock at the moment, but will start exploring this amazing city on foot. . . ’tout suite’, right now. . .

Love, Helen

Friday, May 02, 2008

Last days. . .

Today was my last official day at WAFF, as tomorrow I am headed Up Country again to Bo with Dr. Maggi, Amanda, Sam, John and Poppa the driver to assess new horizons for WAFF. Sunday I depart Sierra Leone.

Today was a big day. I observed about a two hour surgery of the removal of a uterine fibroid, very impressive to watch Dr. Maggi in action with the great assistance of Dr. Lewis and Dr. George. The woman looked as though she was about 6 months pregnant and lo and behold the fibroid was huge. Dr. Maggi reckons on a scale of 10 it was about a 7-7.5. It was great to watch all the theatre nurses in action too. There were always a few extra challenges to deal with such as procurement of supplies and having the power cut out twice during the op. The woman is doing fine post op. Even though she did not have a fistula, WAFF has been doing a few ‘extra’ surgeries for women who have fibroids, etc. . .

Later in the afternoon there was a "discharge ceremony" for 10 women who have been here for the month that I have been here. Hawa Sesay was one of the women I picked up in Kagbere three weeks ago and delivered to WAFF. I also observed her fistula repair and spent a lot of time with her postoperatively. Today I presented the presents at their graduation, including farming tools: a cutlass, rake, shovel and hoe which I purchased with some of my birthday donations. All 10 women were thrilled and looked so beautiful in their newly sewn dresses. They all danced and sang their traditional songs with the nurses and it was very festive. At one point the floor was shaking considerably! It was a lovely time and they gave me a special "Tenk-hee" song and blessing which left me in a puddle. I will miss them all.

Click on the photos to enlarge.

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

6 More Days. . .

It's hard to believe that I just have 6 more days here. I have learned so much and met many wonderful people. Time is totally warped. Sometimes it as though I have been here for months, other times just a quick flash.

I have gotten into the routine of walking to the hospital every morning at about 7:30. It's a steady up hill trek on a series of tracks through a few "neighbourhoods" and takes about 30 minutes. Despite the heat, I actually arrive at WAFF feeling quite energised. I wash up and change clothes, as I am absolutely drenched with sweat upon arrival. The commute gives me a chance to reflect and feel a bit more integrated. People now call out "How de bow-dee?" and know my name. I am definitely an enigma, not many "urpotos" (white people) walk this route!

There are families out getting ready for the day, doing all the regular things of getting kids off to school, plaiting their hair and washing up and cooking breakfast over open fires. Scroungy dogs are very prevalent. Yesterday the 27th was Sierra Leone's 47th year of independence, but the holiday has been on Monday. There have been major parades and parties everywhere.
Last night the music blared throughout the town until 0600, so this morning when I did the walk things were pretty quiet.

It's been very wonderful getting to know Dr. Darius Maggi from Denison, Texas. He founded WAFF and is a very compassionate individual who really goes all out for these women of Sierra Leone. We have been able to have good discussions about WAFF and health care generally in Sierra Leone. This is his 20th time here, so everyone welcomes him heartily.
It's just so amazing that this is one of the Africa's richest countries in terms of natural resources, yet it's on the bottom of the GNP list. It is interesting to try to make some sense of this and try to figure out ways to help these people with him. I'll come back "talkin' like a like a Texin" if I don't watch out. It's infectious!

A few photos. . .

Here are a few photos.
I'll be writing an update soon.

Helen

Friday, April 25, 2008

Back in Freetown. . .

Back in Freetown late last night and I am here at the local internet cafe now. So many sights on the way here, about a mile walk through very crowded streets full of pedestrians, motorbikes and cars. Definitely the most vulnerable aspect of being here, not the security aspect, just not getting hit by a moving vehicle. I am very careful and have eyes at the back of my head now.

Interesting sights to see as the morning begins. What these people (generally women) carry on their heads is just phenomenal. Mostly their hands are free too! Huge loads of rice, mangos, petrol. I also saw two soccer players jogging to practice with the balls on top of their heads! Amazing. . .Then there are the women all plaiting each other's hair around their doors stoops. The many homeless dogs are curled up on the street corners after a big night out foraging through all the rubbish on the streets. Saturday will be the monthly clean up day where no vehicles are allowed out until early afternoon. A joke, as the rubbish just gets shoved up into enormous piles on the roadsides and never gets picked up so things just get strewn all over again.

We had a full 36 hours away Up Country. We went to Koidu in the Kono District. There is still much evidence of the war damage. It's hard to believe that the Weekend Australian featured Sierra Leone as a travel destination. It seems like it's going to be awhile before a real tourist trade can be established here. Mind you, I haven't seen the coastal areas much, but I have seen lots of the other districts and the facilities are very basic or nonexistent.

We ended up not going to Kabala. Turns out the famous left behind girl will have to wait for a different MD. Her surgery is more specialised. There is a Dr. Smith from Vanderbilt who comes over and spends 10 days doing a marathon of work. We have a current list of 8 or so women for him, so hopefully he will be able to come soon. We did bring back 4 VVF patients for surgery at WAFF. One is a 15 year old girl who also has foot drop (nerve damage) as a result of a 4-day obstructed labor. Very sad. I am getting hold of a physical therapist today to train the nurses in her care.

When we arrived back at WAFF the women were all watching a DVD. When I walked in they all started clapping and chanting, "Helen, Helen". I feel like a movie star! The nurses are very sweet with the new patients, giving them welcome hugs. Unfortunately, due to a lack of bed space, some patients who have been here awhile will have to be moved to another hospital tomorrow. This just breaks my heart, as it feels like they are going into the gulag. This other hospital has no water, food or electricity!

Must be off now.
Much love, Helen

April 21, 2008

Birthday wishes come true. . .

It was very gratifying to see last week’s nocturnal brainstorm materialize very successfully this afternoon. My idea to have a party for the women of WAFF in honor of my own 54th birthday became more of an event than I ever imagined. Many thanks to all of you who have so generously donated to my cause. You have helped make these women at WAFF feel very happy. Their grins and constant words of tenk-hee, tenk-hee with singing and clapping gave me such pleasure, happiness and a sense of fulfillment. I feel that we have all made a positive impact for these women. It was truly a Gammy event. Thank you for giving me such a memorable birthday and to all who sent messages from afar too. I felt very loved and appreciated.













All the purchases to date: 25 colorful plastic chairs, 2 plastic tables, beach umbrellas for tables, 2 sewing machines, 2 washing machines, 2 dryers, 6 rolls of fabric for new hospital gowns… enough for 90 gowns, 20 newly sewn gowns, party favors for each patient…a toilet bag with new towels and a jar of zinc oxide were presented to them by me throughout the day. It made it fun to stretch out all the surprises. In the morning I set up the chairs, tables, and umbrellas and urged them all to get up and outside. They all oohed and aahed and stayed outside all morning through lunch time. I had also come across some good books for them from a second hand collection from the Alghali’s, my hosts, which they loved perusing.


























The day progressed with the presentation of their new uniforms at noontime. They were thrilled and all broke out in spontaneous song and dance…very sweet. After a bit of a rest we had ice cream (many had never tasted it), drinks and watermelon with the staff. More presentations, the sewing machines and the party favours, following a talk by me holding a blow up Earth to explain where my friends and family were to help illustrate how many people far and wide had donated to their cause. This was doubly translated into Krio and then into some of the tribal dialects.















I read the plaque which I had arranged to have made and, considering all the highly charged emotions, managed to pull it off with only a couple of voice cracks! While we were eating the cake for the birthday I share with Nurse Jackie, the washers and dryers were delivered. It was fantastic to witness their delighted expressions accompanied by more whoops, singing and clapping.

We had a few photos and then wrapped it up. Everyone should sleep well tonight.



















Now I want to ensure that the washer and dryer get hooked up properly. I will also train people how to use them. The dryers will not be necessary until the rainy season begins, probably within a month or so, and lasting through October. I have also lined up a staff person, Lansana, who is a trained tailor, to teach sewing. Some of them seem really eager to learn. Buying farm\garden tools and seeds is also on my list. For the women who rely on farming this will be of great assistance and also give them more independence. With Dr. Lewis I will help identify some possible scholarship recipients. The days will be full! Dr. Darius Maggi will be arriving from the USA on Friday and I am eager to meet with him.

Wednesday I am going Up Country again to retrieve more women. This time the destination will be to Koidu in the Kono District which is the diamond area in the eastern region. We will also go and get the girl in Kabala whom we had to leave behind on my first trip out.

I can feel the time slipping until it is time for my departure…still much work to be done.

Much love, Helen